The Orange Mountain Bike website displays photographs that have been converted into digital images to represent the products available for purchase. We do our upmost to accurately present the colour, but with variations in monitor calibration there may be slight discrepancies beyond our control. To ensure the best attempts are made to provide uniform shots, we photograph all bikes in a studio at the factory using the same equipment and fixtures to control light and produce consistent representations.

The nature of the product we supply means differences in frame materials, baking processes and treatments all contribute to the final paint finish. To control as much as possible we powder coat our frames in house but a particular colour or lacquer might lay differently according to material or factors involved in supply beyond our control. Finishing frames in such small quantities also means paint thickness may vary and with some colours more temperamental than others in their application, small inconsistencies may manifest themselves on the finished product. We quality control all finished frames and where inconsistencies occur, either accept or reject based on the difficulty of a particular colour.

We take great pride in the hand built and hand painted frames we produce and ensure the best possible quality at every stage, if you are unhappy with any area of your bike please get in touch.

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Unfortunately the warranty only applies to the original owner, please see the warranty section for details.

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The 10-speed Shimano XTR crank has now been split between two categories, the ‘race’ oriented M985 and the ‘trail’ dedicated M980.

The ‘race’ inspired 2x10 specific M985 option is built for the race purists who want the lightest possible build, with a close gear ratio ring combination for a smaller but more dedicated range. The decreased cadence change between shifting maintains momentum, with the narrower Q-factor having apparent efficiency advantages, but compatibility issues with most frames.

The ‘trail’ inspired M980 is designed for more all condition use, with wider gear ratios and broader functionality being the mainstay of design. Increased rigidity, durability and reliability with little weight compromise over the ‘race’ version. The M980 is also interchangeable between two and three rings depending on model.

Five

The Five SE is fitted with the FC-M980 and 42-32-24 ring combination. This provides ample frame clearance and the broadest shift combination for all-mountain and trail applications.

The 38/26 version of the FC-M980 is NOT compatible with the Five frame, neither is the FC-M985 range, all having ring clearance issues with the main pivot.

ST4

The ST4 SE is fitted with the triple FC-M980 42-32-24 ring option. The 2x10 ready 38-26 also fits, but with clearance tight, we would recommend sticking with the three ring option for improved performance in winter conditions.

The ST4 is NOT compatible with FC-M985 options. Regardless of fitment issues, we feel the ‘trail’ oriented M980 is a better fit with this style of bike.

This is the compatability chart for our 2011 range:

	FC-M980	FC-M980	FC-M985	FC-M985	FC-M985
Chainrings	42-32-24	38-26	40-28	42-30	44-30
PCD (mm)	104/64mm	104/64mm	88mm	88mm	88mm
Chain Line	50mm	46.8mm	48.8mm	48.8mm	48.8mm
Five	Yes	No	No	No	No
ST4	Yes	Yes	No	No	No
Blood	Yes	Yes	No	No	No
Alpine	Yes	No	No	No	No
Elite	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
P7	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
R8	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
Crush	Yes	Yes	No	No	No

Keeping it 3x10:

So for optimum shifting and increased usability in most trail situations, the FC-M980 is the best option with 42-32-24 ring combinations. This has optimum clearance, and includes a titanium/carbon composite middle ring to improve drive-train longevity and wet weather performance. A ‘standard’ 50mm chain line also brings setup advantages and compatibility with most bikes on the market. 2x10 options have clearance issues with either less ring clearance, or the narrower Q-factor causing issue. This update and recommendation isn’t a discussion of the validity of 2x10, just a note to make customers aware of compatibility issues with many of the frames on the market. The market can decide whether 2x10 is valid as a design idea…

And 1x10?

If you're building the ultimate trail bike a 1x10 option is becoming increasingly popular. A chain device keeps things flawlessly secure at the front so you'll never drop a chain, it also minimises maintenance with the front mech left securely at home in the garage. Whether or not it works for you is dependant on where you ride, but with 11-36 cassettes as standard on most 10-speed bikes, it's a broad selection of gears to keep you spinning. As development continues, there's also rumours about 9-36, potentially spelling the end of the front mech on hardcore trail bikes. It's your decision whether the weight and simplicity benefits are enough to make you push that little bit harder on the climbs, but 1x10 is definitely here to stay, fashion or otherwise...

If you want to read a little more on the validity of 1x10, get a copy of Dirt Magazine issue 107 (January 2011), it gives a well rounded argument.

Disclaimer:

The XTR cranks have been tested on a small sample of frames, but with clearance incredibly tight on certain models, frame and component tolerances may cause an issue. If you are building your own bike we would always recommend using your local bike shop to facilitate the build. As things get more complicated in the industry and transmission companies get more experimental, it’s all too easy to end up with the wrong thing.

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The Cane Creek Double Barrel supershock is available now on all 224-evolution, Alpine 160 and Blood models.

The Cane Creek Double Barrel is one of those few components that causes a genuine stir in the mountain bike world. It hasn’t been hit hard with marketing or hype, it’s quietly come onto the scene and blown everything else out of the water. That’s how it works on the bike too, no crazy graphics or showy dials, it quietly gets on with annihilating the trail and every other shock you’ve ever ridden.

The key to the success of the Double Barrel shock is Öhlins' Twin Tube technology. This system pumps oil through a continuous circuit allowing full control of both rebound and compression movements. Circulating the oil through the valving instead of the main piston allows independant remote adjustment not possible on other shocks. External adjustment eradicates the need for expensive custom tunes and allows easy setup according to track or weather conditions. You no longer need a factory race truck to revalve your shock, you can do it yourself. Öhlins might have made a name for themselves in motorsport, but along with Cane Creek their technology has revolutionised mountain bike suspension setup.

There are four key adjustments and two that are often overlooked, here’s a quick summary of what each controls:

Low-speed compression:

Modulates small bump sensitivity and pedal-platform stability to dial in the balance between immediate plushness and pedal load effects.

High-speed compression:

Adjusts how the shock reacts to the initial high-speed impact of a big hit.

Low-speed rebound:

Controls rebound in slow shaft speed situations such as pedaling, exiting corners, G-outs and unloading weight before rough sections of the trail.

High-speed rebound:

Dials in high-speed recovery after big impacts, sudden compressions or shock extension after leaving the lip of a jump.

Preload:

Preload is the amount you compress the spring from its normal state. This effects how much the shock sags when weighted.

Spring rate:

The correct spring rate ensures the usability of travel for riders of a certain weight. Recommendations below.

Steel spring only.

Model	Rider Weight (lb)	Spring Rate (lb)
Five	140-155	450
	160-175	500
	180-200	550
Blood	135-155	350
	160-175	400
	180-205	500
Alpine 160	135-155	350
	160-200	400
	205-255	500
224-evo	170-185	350
	190-200	400
	205-255	500

 

We offer three options per model, with the spring rates provided above as a suggested baseline. These have taken into consideration rider weight distribution and preload based on approximately 30% sag at two collar turns. You can select your preferred option on ordering your upgrade, if you come outside these limits spare springs can be sourced through Extra UK.

So why upgrade your Orange to the Cane Creek Double Barrel? True versatility. It “seemingly knows what terrain you are riding over and deals with it in stealth mode” (2010 Dirt 100). The movement is stiction free creating a limitless feel to the travel allowing the damping complete control of the shock and creating unbreakable traction on the trail. If you ride flats and continually bounce off the pedals, the Double Barrel will give you more control and let you hit stutter bumps without the fear. “This is one of, if not THE best piece of mountain bike equipment you can buy. It’s impossible to put into words how good this shock is” (Dirt #87). 

The Double Barrel is the only upgrade you can buy to push even more out of your Orange frame, only you know if you need that sort of performance…

Read an Orange staff longterm review here.

Cane Creek Double Barrel

 

If you're looking for some setup tips, here's the advice Dave gave to an Alpine 160 rider in North Wales:

"Adjustments on the CCDB take time, and there isn’t a magic formula unfortunately. Basically, low speed compression and rebound are the first places to start, these are the easiest to measure bouncing around outside the house. Slow speed rebound is similar to on an air shock, I generally set it about midpoint in the clicks. Generally, I try and have it as fast as possible, but ensuring when I ride through a sharp ditch or compression seated, it DOESN’T kick the back wheel in the air when it rebounds. If it loses traction and you feel it kick you forwards when the shock re-extends, you need to add a couple of clicks until it rebounds smoothly leaving you seated comfortably and ready to attack the next section of trail. That done, it’s time for slow speed compression. Too much and it will feel dead, too little and it will feel wallowy and sit down in the travel when you move your weight around on the bike. So again, start from the standard mid-point – and you might find this okay. If the bike sinks too much when you lean back, or it bobs ridiculously when pedaling, add some slow speed compression to make it less sensitive to these shifts in weight that effect the efficiency of the suspension. So for riding that includes a good amount of pedaling, I’d suggest a mid point in the clicks, then add a couple more clicks towards plus, this should help it sit up better when you’re pedalling. That’s slow speed adjustments well on the way...

High speed, you need to go playing on a proper trail, more hardcore sections of trail that you ride. High speed rebound is how the shock reacts to bigger hits. When you hit a large ‘square-edge’ bump – i.e. A big sharp rock, perhaps on a slight incline after a large downhill section. The bike will perhaps try and kick you as the shock recovers – similar to the description of riding through the ditch above, but more abrupt, and something you’ll feel through the pedals. Worst case scenario would be hitting a big ditch or bomb hole and as it recovers it catapults the rider over the bars – the kind of thing you see on G-outs as riders hit berms at ridiculous speeds and catapult themselves using their shock out of the corner. This is difficult to explain, but if you feel the shock is throwing you too much in these situations i.e. You’re losing traction or feel like you’re being pitched over the front, add some high-speed damping (towards plus) to dull this effect. This might be an adjustment you don’t really use until you find a place on the trail you ride where you notice this kind of thing. An example where it would work for you in North Wales would include the section on the Coed y Brenin trails after the initial pedal up from the visitor centre, you hit the steep tarmac climb and turn right. That smooth fast descent there – you head down over the whoops, then at the fastest point the trail turns left slightly and as it goes uphill there’s two whoops you hit at break neck speed. If you pump the first hump, then the bike compresses hard and fast in the gap, invariably it fires you over the next, losing traction and nearly causing me to crash EVERY time. With slow speed rebound you can control this feeling and retain better traction – in turning making you faster – but this adjustment is maybe most relevant when riding on the edge!

High speed compression is easy enough. It relates to big old whacks. Basically it relates to shaft speed – if it takes a hit of a certain frequency it dampens the speed it goes down. So I’d suggest taking the bike to a drop you’re comfortable with. You want the bike to use all or most of its travel on the biggest hits you take. If it bottoms, high speed compression can be added and this will slow down how quickly it compresses on these impacts, slowing it down or reducing shaft speed means getting to the end of its travel will take a split second longer theoretically, but drastically improve the feel and harshness as it goes through its travel. This again needs starting at the midpoint, then based on your experiences on the trail and the way you ride, either turn more on (+) to dampen bigger hits – or turn it off to make it more supple on the trails you’re riding.

Finally, if it feels right, it is right. Shock setup is personal to every sort of rider and every kind of bike, only you know what works for you.

Oh, and remember spring rate and preload is important. To add sag on a coil shock you turn the collar on the shock (where the coil hits its stop at the front of the bike). To get your sag right, about 30% on most bikes, you’re best using a ruler to measure from shock bolt to shock bolt, then work out when you’ve got it right by measuring the difference. And if you can’t get the adjustments right, remember spring rate does what air does on an RP23. 

I'm no suspension guru but it helps explain the adjustments a little and how to work out what's what"

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It's early days, but there is an attempt to standardise how headsets are specified. Codes are very similar to Cane Creek proposed names.

Anyway, for Orange bikes, the technical headset descriptions are:

ZS44/28.6|ZS56/40 - for a tapered MTB fork steerer tube in the 44-55.95zs frame
ZS44/28.6|ZS56/30 - for a straight 1-1/8" fork steerer in the 44-55.95zs frame

The name goes like this upper|lower:
upper: bearing location (EC, ZS, IS), headtube bore (30, 34, 44, 49, 56, etc.) / fork size at stem (25.4, 28.6, 38.1, etc.)
lower: bearing location (EC, ZS, IS), headtube bore (30, 34, 44, 49, 56, etc.) / fork size at crown race (30, 40, etc.)

Bearing location refers to whether the headset is a tradition External Cup (EC) fitting, a Zero Stack (ZS), or an Integrated System (IS).

At first glance it might appear complicated, but it is the minimal amount of info required to define a headset now. All the manufacturers are still free to name headsets as they wish (for example Hope may still use letters and numbers) but they will explain the letters and numbers in the above terms to make fitment info universal.

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The 2011 Fox 36 fork now comes in a 180mm option for the freeride masses, relatively light weight but with more travel pushing the Fox 36 family into new territory. While this was a natural progression for their series, it's not a new fork that's interchangeable within our range with standard 160mm options. The axle to crown length may not be dramatically longer, but the added stress this puts on the frame is cause for concern on bikes designed with a maximum length in mind. So, if you choose to ride the 180mm fork on an Alpine 160, you do so at your own risk and at the cost of your warranty. There are frames in development more appropriate to this fork, so stay tuned for 2012 if you're looking for something more aggressive. 

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The 2011 Five and Alpine 160 both come equipped with a tapered headtube. All tapered Orange bikes use the Frustum ZS standard with ZeroStack 1-1/8" top and 1.5" bottom. See Cane Creek information here. The top cup is 44mm ZS with 55.9mm ZS lower cup sizing. Cane Creek, Hope and Chris King all produce headsets for this standard. The Hope part number for a compatible system using a tapered steerer fork is HSTN, if you want to run a traditional 1-1/8" fork in a tapered frame, add the step down crown race, part number HS136. 

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The threaded spacer sleeve between the Allen bolts comes in three lengths 29mm, 31mm and 33mm. If you need spares measure the outside dimension of the shock mount on your frame or swing-arm. This distance should match the sleeve length. You can buy them as a spare part here.

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Here’s a table of torque settings:

Model	Bolt/Thread	Torque Setting
22X, Patriot, Five	* Bearing clamp bolts	14Nm
222, 223, 224, 224-evo	† Axle pinch bolts for 222 only (M5)	4.5Nm
22X, Patriot, Five	* Shock bolts	13Nm
22X	* Axle bolts	14Nm

† Copperslip grease must be used.
* Loctite threadlocker (243 or 248 Stick) must be used.

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We are often asked what size front mech, seat post or bottom bracket fits a particular model and this can be one of the hardest questions to give an answer to. Because we introduced running changes to each bike, knowing the year of manufacture does not help to clearly identify which variation of the model you may have. Some seatposts were shimmed to fit seat tubes, bottom bracket length is determined by the chainset you use (sorry but we don’t check this with every chainset available) and front mech’s could be top pull, bottom pull or even plate style.

We do not have records of frame numbers for older bikes so this cannot be used to accurately identify a model.

What we have tried to do is give an idea of what was produced over the years, please use this guide, measure the component you are replacing and try and get one with identical dimensions. Always check with your dealer that the part you are purchasing will fit, if in doubt let them do it.

Model	Year	Seat-tube	Seat-post	Seatpost Clamp	Front Mech	BB Shell	Max Disc Rotor	Comment
222	00-03	27.2	27.2	31.8	n/a	73	200
223	03-04	27.2	27.2	31.8	n/a	73 ISCG	200
223 DD	03-04	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	73	200	1"1/2 steerer
224	05-07	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	73 ISCG	200
224-evolution	08>	27.2	27.2	31.8	n/a	73 ISCG	200
AirO	99-01	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	73	180
Alpine 160	09-10	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	73	200
Big T	06-08	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	73	200	1"1/2 steerer
Blood	09>	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	73 ISCG	200
C16, C16R	95-97	30	27.2 +shim	31.8	31.8	68	n/a	Slot faces rear
C16, C16R	97-98	29.6	27.2 +shim	31.8	31.8	68	n/a	Slot faces front
Clockwork	93-94	26.8	26.8	28.6	28.6	68	n/a
Clockwork	98-99	29.6	27.2 +shim	31.8	31.8	68	n/a	Slot faces front
Crush	06-10	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	68	180
Crush	11>	30.9	30.9	34.9	34.9	68	180	Tapered headtube
E3	95-98	30	27.2 +shim	34.9	34.9	68	n/a
E4	98-99	26.8	26.8	31.8	31.8	68	n/a
E6	00-02	26.8	26.8	31.8	31.8	68	160
E8	02-05	26.8	26.8	31.8	31.8	68	160
Elite	2011	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	68	160	Tapered headtube
evo2	99-03	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	68	180
evo4	04-05	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	68	180
evo6	06	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	68	180
evo8	07-09	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	68	180
Five	04-10	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	73	180
Five	10>	30.9	30.9	34.9	34.9	73 ISCG	200	Tapered headtube
G2, G3, G4	05>	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	68	160
Gringo	99-00	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	68	n/a
Hitman	04>	29.8	27.2 +shim	31.8	n/a	73 ISCG	180
Mii	06-08	27.2	27.2	31.8	n/a	73 ISCG	180
Miii	10>	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	73 ISCG	180
Mr O	99-00	31.6	27.2 +shim	34.9	34.9	73	160
Mr XC	99-01	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	73	160
MsIsle	98-99	31.6	27.2 +shim	34.9	34.9	73	180
MsIsle	99-06	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	73	180
O2	97-98	31.6	27.2 +shim	34.9	34.9	68	n/a
P7	94-98	30	27.2 +shim	31.8	31.8	68	n/a	Slot faces rear
P7	98-05	29.6	27.2 +shim	31.8	31.8	68	160	Slot faces front
P7	06-09	29.8	27.2 +shim	31.8	31.8	68	160
P7	10-11	27.2	27.2	29.8	28.6	68 ISCG 05	180
Patriot	99-04	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	73	200
Patriot	07-08	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	73	200
Patriot 66	05-06	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	73	200
Patriot 7+	03-05	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	73	200
R8	10>	27.2	27.2	29.8	28.6	68	180
ST4	08-10	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	73	180
Sub 3	00-03	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	73	160
Sub 5	00-03	27.2	27.2	31.8	31.8	73	180
UFO	98-99	31.6	27.2 +shim	34.9	34.9	68	n/a
X1	96-98	30	27.2 +shim	31.8	31.8	68	n/a
X2	97-99	30	27.2 +shim	31.8	31.8	68	n/a
Zero	00-02	27.2	27.2	31.8	n/a	73	160

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The dealer page lists the demo bikes a store holds in stock and the dates of any promotional demo days. If there isn’t a store with the specific bike you need, any Orange dealer has access to a central fleet they may book on your behalf. These bikes must be pre-booked by your dealer, so make sure you plan ahead.

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The world of cycling is full of buzz words and marketing propaganda. At Orange we try not to pigeon-hole bikes, we realise people ride as individuals, not according to the disciplines which are ‘in’ at the time. We created the ‘ride guide’ simply to show the type of riding the bike was designed for, but also its aptitude in related disciplines.

The marked boxes indicate the design brief of each frame, the stars then indicate how we judge its performance within each category. The Alpine 160 was designed for all-mountain and freeride applications, the stars then show its relative strengths within each discipline. The G3 was designed for XC-trail and adventure riding; the stars again show its relative strengths while the stop signs show any restrictions we place upon its use.

We have chosen the categories based on the most commonly used riding terms, a brief explanation of each is provided below:

Downhill: These bikes are designed for one thing: flat out downhill speed. They are built to take the abuse and provide run after run of big-hit excitement. Downhill bikes are purely performance orientated within a very specific discipline.

Freeride: Freeride bikes are designed for tough, technical, nadgery terrain. Freeriding can cover anything from ploughing through an Alpine rock field to negotiating your way through tricky ‘north-shore’ style trails in the local woods. They are built for serious terrain, but slightly higher bottom brackets and steeper head-angles generally make them more nimble at slower speeds than a dedicated downhill bike.

All-Mountain: All-mountain bikes do just that, they take you up and down any part of the mountain. They have the poise of a freeride bike on the downs, but air shocks and a lighter component package make them less of a struggle to get back up again. They’re the bike for those who want to pedal, but still need a bike to take the hits.

XC Trail: This is the kind of riding most of us do in the UK. It includes everything from trail centre bashing to a full day of riding in the wilds. They’re for anyone who rides all day and needs performance on the ups as well as the downs. But don’t be fooled, just because it’s an XC bike doesn’t mean it isn’t going to scream for more on the descents too.

Adventure: Adventure covers the more traditional aspects of XC. Big days out with a map and compass, getting lost on your local bridleways, or even finding a piece of singletrack which makes the commute to work the best part of the day.

Touring: Plan a route, pack your panniers and head out into the hills for a week of downtime. In our ‘ride guide’ this can include touring around country lanes, doing that point to point off-road ride you’ve been planning for years, or simply riding into work. These bikes can handle off-road riding, but they’re designed for efficiency and versatility rather than trail abuse.

The critical reader will notice the overlap between these categories, and this is reflected in the rating system within the ‘ride guide’. A freeride bike, for example, is going to have downhill and all-mountain capabilities. Similarly, an adventure oriented bike is going to have similarities with both an xc-trail bike and touring bike – that’s our point, none of our bikes just do one thing.

When choosing a bike, be realistic about your capabilities. A longer travel bike does not make you a better rider; technique is learnt, not part of the bike package. If you’re riding xc-trails, don’t buy a freeride bike and believe it’s going to make you a better rider. If you’re in any doubt about what is going to suit you best, talk to your local dealer and get their advice. If you are still unsure, arrange a test ride and take the bike on the trails you ride. If you have fun and want to ride it more, it’s definitely the bike for you. Riding is about feel, not the buzz word which forms the catalogue header.

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All our shocks come with a standard spring which is chosen to suit the largest number of riders within the bikes intended application. The 224-evolution, for example, comes with a 400lb spring.

Inevitably, some riders will come outside the suitability of the standard spring. If you are frequently bottoming your bike or not using enough of its travel, you can purchase either a standard spring or an upgraded titanium spring through your nearest Orange dealer. To select the correct spring weight use the calculator on the Mojo website.

If you’re upgrading to a Cane Creek Double Barrel we offer three options, check the Cane Creek FAQ section for more details, or read Dave's review here.

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Standard tyres have been chosen in accordance with each bikes intended use and the width which best suits the frame and application. The minimum clearance for any part of the frame should be 3mm, this allows sufficient clearance for wheel flex in the event of a heavy side load. Always ensure wheels are trued and dished correctly.

When changing tyres, select a width based on the clearance of your current set up. If there is not sufficient clearance, do not use the tyre as it may damage paintwork or the frame itself.

Your choice of replacement tyres must also consider fork requirements; check the fork manual or website for details on their minimum clearance requirements. Expect a minimum of around 5mm to be necessary for most fork manufacturers. Check clearance on the fork crown by completely compressing the suspension with a correctly fitted and inflated tyre.

Remember, tyres can provide the most cost effective way of adapting the performance characteristics of your bike. Establish the type and conditions you are riding and select your rubber accordingly. If you are unsure of what suits you best, an Orange dealer can advise you on models and widths.

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This is perhaps the most important decision once you have decided which model suits you best. For this reason, we refer you to the expert advice of our premier dealers. Every rider has different needs depending on their height, shape, and what style of riding they intend to do. Our dealers can provide you with the information you need and make sure you get the fit which is perfect for you. If you are still in doubt, arrange a test ride.

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It is important you look after your bike to ensure maximum performance and improved longevity. The programme you adopt will be dependent on you, your riding conditions and your riding style. We recommend talking to your bike shop regarding proper practices, it's also worth getting a good maintenance book to talk you through procedures you can do at home. Keeping the bike clean and well lubed is always the best place to start...

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Yes, we offer a full re-spray service on all Orange mountain bikes. You can either contact us directly or make arrangements through your dealer.

Before sending your frame for re-spray, remove all over-lacquer decals. This minimises the time we have to spend preparing each frame and maximises efficiency. Package carefully and send to the factory (see contact page). Include a clear covering letter with all necessary contact information.

On receipt of your frame, we will strip the existing paint and prepare it for powder-coating. It will then be painted in the earliest allocated window for that particular colour, with standard colours painted more frequently. Fresh out of the oven we'll face and ream any excess paint, reassemble with new bearings, apply new decals and fit a metal headbadge. This is a fairly labour intensive programme, but when it's finished, it'll come back looking like brand new.

Expect a wait of two to three weeks depending on colour choice and schedule.

Hardtails (including decals and return postage in mainland UK) – £150
Full suspension (including pivot kit, decals and return postage in mainland UK) – £200

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The warranty card supplied with the bike gives you all the details you need to check the eligibility of a warranty claim on the frame. This is also available online here. The bike should have been registered from new and proof of purchase must be sent with any returns. All warranty claims must be sent via your supplying dealer.

Suspension forks, rear shocks and other parts not manufactured by Orange Bikes are covered by the stated warranty of their manufacturer. Claims on components should be sent to their UK representative again through your supplying dealer.

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If left unchecked, normal cable rub can wear away paint, decals and even cause damage to the frame itself.

During the initial setup and after the inaugural ride it is important you identify any potential areas which may cause issue. Once found, apply necessary protection and/or alter your cable routing to avoid damage.

The cables can often be lifted away from the frame using cleverly positioned zip-ties, and where contact is unavoidable, clear adhesive patches are available from all good bike shops.

NOTE: If damage does occur due to excessive cable rub, this is not a condition covered under your frame warranty. Adhesive patches are not a quick fix for incorrectly installed cables; if you find the patches are wearing quickly, and the tips provided above haven't helped, consult your Orange Bikes dealer for more information about cable routing on your bike

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After a serious accident the frame should be checked for any indication of stress or potential failure. This may include cracks, deformation, corrosion, paint peeling, dents or any other marks consistent with the trauma of a severe impact.

If a problem is identified and you feel that it may be repairable, e-mail a picture to us. We will then contact you with our recommendation and an estimate for any work which we could potentially carry out. Due to the process of heat treatment, any frame repaired which is over three years old may not retain its original strength, so in most cases we recommend the frame be replaced.

In the event that the damage is irreparable, or that the cost would be too dramatic to justify, we refer you to the accidental damage section of your warranty card. To the original owner, and with proof of purchase supplied, we offer a discount for replacement frames damaged in a crash. This discount is a gesture of goodwill and dependant on the conditions set out on the warranty card. If a replacement is provided, be more careful where you’re riding!!

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No. While we stock most standard sticker kits, we do not provide custom options - this includes standard decals in different colours.

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We offer replacement stickers for most models. We may not be able to match your original decals exactly, but suitable alternatives will be offered. All kits include a full set of decals and a metal head-badge.

To order sticker-sets give us a call and be prepared with your frame number and colour so we can find a suitable match. Standard kits cost £19.99 including UK postage.

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We get a lot of speculative correspondence requesting placements under various study/work experience schemes. Unfortunately we cannot provide a structured experience which would provide the rewards traditional engineering firms may offer. Because of the way we operate, the design, manufacture, marketing and distribution is quite a unique setup which would not give you sufficient exposure and would be difficult for us to implement with the small number of staff at the factory. If we do ever have opportunities these will be advertised with application details on the website.

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Your bearings are maintenance free. They come greased from new. Avoid using a high pressure washer to clean your bike as this will remove the grease. Check the wear of the bearings every 6 months. Remove your rear wheel and rear shock and lift the swing arm up and down. If they feel rough then get a new pair!

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The LT used a Fox Vanilla RC coil shock with a 57mm stroke, if it’s got a 5th element, Fox R or RS unit then its a 5 inch travel version, The Fox RC was the only shock ever specc’ed that was available with a 57mm stroke, there were no changes to LT frames other than removing canti bosses to stop V brakes contacting the seattube under full compression. if you can find a 190/57 Fox RC its an easy upgrade to make provided you run discs.

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